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What Size Nail For Face Nailing Hardwood Floor

Barn01
Member
Oct 2, 2012
426 posts
286 upvotes
Ottawa

Hello Patrob,
And so I've been don't some pricing and I've found 2 products that I like.
1) Mirage - Admiration - Cherry-red Oak - S&B
2) Superior Flooring - Red Oak - S&B

Both are quoted at $seven/sqf for 1300sqf and that price is for both iii one/4" strip 3/4 solid and 5/viii engineering.

I've called the other place in my city that sells Mirage and he refuses to give me a price over the phone and said he's just going to tell me the MSRP @ $7.55/sqf

I'chiliad non sure where the best bang for my buck is and if that's a adept toll to pay. Whatsoever thoughts?

I would exist installing it myself.

Dirty-D
Deal Addict
Sep eleven, 2006
1382 posts
358 upvotes
Toronto

I am installing 1/2 engineered on osb. The engineered flooring is composed of all plywood and needs to be stapled down. I am non using whatever transition moldings, the wood fits prissy and level with the exiting kitchen tile.
I am trying to avoid face nailing the starting rows where they meet the tile. I volition be face nailing the wood about the baseboard as I will be installing quarter round to embrace the face nails.
In regards to the first row that butts up confronting the tile, tin can I glue this commencement row down with PL premium and weigh it downwardly with some heavy objects? If so, how should I apply a bead of the glue (should I run i small bead or a dab every few inches?) and how long does it usually take to dry before I can continue installing the floor?

zinger1
Newbie
Mar 19, 2006
65 posts
16 upvotes

Hullo,

I finished installing new hardwood (maple) on the main floor. It was a lot of piece of work just well worth information technology. My next project is replacing the carpeted stairs with hardwood. I have looked at pre-made maple stair treads.

The question I have is apropos the ascent of the summit step. Sine the tread is an inch thick I am concerned it would be a hazard betwixt the difference in rise of the top footstep compared to the others. I have read that dwelling house inspectors are sometimes pretty strict when it comes to this.

What is unremarkably done in this situation to eliminate the hazard? Any advice you tin requite would be much appreciated.

Thank you.

patrob [OP]
Deal Guru
User avatar
Apr 17, 2005
11038 posts
1484 upvotes
Brampton

DIrty-D wrote: ↑Thank you for the response. Unfortunately I'yard located in barrie and the local Stevensons rental does not stock information technology neither does the Domicile Depot, Rona, Barrie rental. I am forced to buy this gun. The lumber liquidators nearby has it for $120. I was just looking for some sort of alternative before I spend that coin on something I will use once

For that price purchase information technology & you can sell it for similar cost if not more afterward you are finished.

Muddied-D wrote: ↑I am installing 1/2 engineered on osb. The engineered floor is composed of all plywood and needs to be stapled down. I am non using whatsoever transition moldings, the wood fits nice and level with the exiting kitchen tile.
I am trying to avoid face up nailing the starting rows where they run across the tile. I will exist face nailing the wood near the baseboard as I will be installing quarter round to embrace the confront nails.
In regards to the first row that butts upwards against the tile, can I gum this offset row downward with PL premium and weigh it down with some heavy objects? If so, how should I utilize a bead of the glue (should I run i small-scale bead or a dab every few inches?) and how long does information technology normally have to dry earlier I can continue installing the floor?

Dry fit before gluing to make sure everything fits overnice against the tile & if yous need some sort of aligning. Run a bead of glue in zig zag move, place the lath & nail information technology with floor runner. The board should stay in identify & no face nailing necessary. If done right yous tin can go on correct away, no need to look.

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patrob [OP]
Bargain Guru
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April 17, 2005
11038 posts
1484 upvotes
Brampton

Barn01 wrote: ↑Hullo Patrob,
Then I've been don't some pricing and I've found 2 products that I like.
1) Mirage - Admiration - Reddish Oak - Southward&B
2) Superior Floor - Red Oak - S&B

Both are quoted at $7/sqf for 1300sqf and that price is for both 3 1/4" strip iii/four solid and five/viii technology.

I've chosen the other place in my city that sells Mirage and he refuses to give me a price over the phone and said he'southward only going to tell me the MSRP @ $7.55/sqf

I'grand not certain where the all-time bang for my buck is and if that'south a good price to pay. Any thoughts?

I would exist installing it myself.

Wow that'due south expensive! I would wait at other products or better yet come to GTA & pick up the forest here for much less lol I believe you're in Ottawa right?

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patrob [OP]
Deal Guru
User avatar
Apr 17, 2005
11038 posts
1484 upvotes
Brampton

zinger1 wrote: ↑Hello,

I finished installing new hardwood (maple) on the main floor. It was a lot of work merely well worth it. My next project is replacing the carpeted stairs with hardwood. I have looked at pre-made maple stair treads.

The question I have is concerning the rise of the peak pace. Sine the tread is an inch thick I am concerned information technology would be a adventure between the divergence in rise of the top footstep compared to the others. I accept read that home inspectors are sometimes pretty strict when it comes to this.

What is normally done in this situation to eliminate the take chances? Any advice you can give would be much appreciated.

Thanks.

When yous are retrofitting your stairs from carpet to hardwood depending on the flooring on the main & upper floor, your first bottom & top ascension may be unlike. Yes some inspectors become crazy over information technology merely the primary idea is to have the same rising on all the steps in betwixt. If the lesser & top rising is slightly different information technology shouldn't be an issue.

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Rheanj
Newbie
Nov 11, 2008
40 posts
Toronto

Hi Patrob,

Thanks for all the cracking info.. I apologize if this has already been posted.. I am trying to find a good dealership where I can either get Wickham or Superior wood from? I found a cost of $4.l per sq ft for Superior and Wickham only they seem very shady. I am looking for 4 3/4 planks.
I haven't decided the colour yet but depending on the brand..
For Superior
1. Superior (White Oak) saddle
ii. Superior (White Ash) outback
three. Superior (Hickory) hudson

For Wickham
1. Wickham (Maple) Antique / Copper / Cinnamon -
2. Wickham (Crimson Oak) Wheat / Antiquarian -
3.WIckham (Birch) Nevada -

I am trying to find the best price if anyone can help.. It would be profoundly appreciated..
Thanks..

patrob [OP]
Bargain Guru
User avatar
Apr 17, 2005
11038 posts
1484 upvotes
Brampton

Rheanj wrote: ↑Hi Patrob,

Thanks for all the great info.. I apologize if this has already been posted.. I am trying to observe a good dealership where I can either get Wickham or Superior wood from? I found a price of $4.50 per sq ft for Superior and Wickham simply they seem very shady. I am looking for 4 iii/4 planks.
I haven't decided the color all the same but depending on the brand..
For Superior
1. Superior (White Oak) saddle
2. Superior (White Ash) outback
3. Superior (Hickory) hudson

For Wickham
1. Wickham (Maple) Antique / Copper / Cinnamon -
ii. Wickham (Crimson Oak) Wheat / Antique -
3.WIckham (Birch) Nevada -

I am trying to find the best price if anyone can assistance.. It would be profoundly appreciated..
Thanks..

You just have to call around their dealers for best toll merely I doubt you lot will discover a much lower prices, few cents +-. As well find out which class the wood is, the lower the toll usually the lower the grade of woods.

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Barn01
Fellow member
Oct 2, 2012
426 posts
286 upvotes
Ottawa

patrob wrote: ↑Wow that's expensive! I would look at other products or better yet come to GTA & pick up the wood here for much less lol I believe you're in Ottawa correct?

Yes I'm in Ottawa, what kind of price might I notice in TO for those?

patrob [OP]
Deal Guru
User avatar
Apr 17, 2005
11038 posts
1484 upvotes
Brampton

Barn01 wrote: ↑Yep I'm in Ottawa, what kind of price might I find in TO for those?

Will be all-time if you contact the dealers straight in TO to get accurate prices.

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antocci
Newbie
Aug 19, 2013
46 posts
10 upvotes
Toronto

Hi can someone recommend a place nigh Whitby for hardwood flooring. Also a installer. Thanks

zeeboz
Newbie
Sep 8, 2015
one posts
Oakville, ON

Hi PATROB,

I want to install engineered hardwood on the 2d flooring, and want an underlayment for: 1) reducing sound travel to main floor, and 2) provide increased comfort for the room above my garage, I don't care about audio travel for this room though. What'due south the all-time underlayment you'd recommend for this? Can 1 underlayment type address both? or one underlayment for the audio and one for the comfort for the room in a higher place the garage? Thanks in advance for your advice.

mr_raider
Deal Expert
Feb 29, 2008
28813 posts
4582 upvotes
Montreal

dog1177 wrote: ↑Hi,

Is it possible to have engineered hardwood floors sanded? We just bought a home with engineered hardwood floors. The previous owners had them installed a few years agone and never sanded them, and the floor is a piffling scratched in the living room due to their pets. Was wondering if this could be washed and if anyone in Montreal is recommended for it.

Thanks.

I used plancher Gagnon on the south shore for my house and they did a good task. This was for hardwood though, not engineered.

slowtyper
Bargain Guru
Sep 2, 2008
12193 posts
1912 upvotes

Howdy All,

I have a 660sqft condo with laminate that I want to supervene upon. Can I get engineered hardwood non made in cathay for $3 or less /sqft? What should I be looking for?

patrob [OP]
Deal Guru
User avatar
Apr 17, 2005
11038 posts
1484 upvotes
Brampton

zeeboz wrote: ↑Hi PATROB,

I desire to install engineered hardwood on the second floor, and want an underlayment for: 1) reducing sound travel to main floor, and 2) provide increased condolement for the room in a higher place my garage, I don't intendance about sound travel for this room though. What'due south the best underlayment you'd recommend for this? Tin can one underlayment type address both? or i underlayment for the audio and one for the condolement for the room above the garage? Thanks in advance for your communication.

If you lot're floating the flooring you tin can use diff. types of rubberized foam underlays that are great for audio barrier. But above the garage, y'all should have it insulated from underneath (garage side). If you lot are nailing the floor down, 6mm cork might work just IMO it's useless for the money y'all spend, at that place is not enough decibel reduction. For proper noise & audio insulation, that should exist done under the plywood.

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patrob [OP]
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Apr 17, 2005
11038 posts
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Brampton

slowtyper wrote: ↑Hi All,

I have a 660sqft condo with laminate that I want to replace. Can I get engineered hardwood non made in people's republic of china for $three or less /sqft? What should I be looking for?

No! You will have a hard time finding engineered hardwood for that price.

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slowtyper
Deal Guru
Sep ii, 2008
12193 posts
1912 upvotes

patrob wrote: ↑No! You lot will have a difficult time finding engineered hardwood for that price.

So for case I go to this site (http://www.lumberliquidators.ca/tin/s/e ... pe=product) and expect at their sqft prices. Are these all crap? I encounter a bunch of different sites with like prices, are these just crappy engineered hardwood or what am I missing hither?

Tabooger
Deal Fanatic
User avatar
Nov 1, 2010
5636 posts
1847 upvotes
Kanata

I'chiliad on rug at present, and they contractor will be doing the flooring. I've opted to remove the carpet myself and screw down the floor to eliminate noise. I'm just reading manufactures on how to go near screwing downward the subfloor. It's a 6 year erstwhile newly built home in Ottawa.

Whatsoever tips? Screw size for example, how far apart in the field, and how far autonomously forth the sides.

Cheers!

Uh, yeah, I'd like to speak to a Mr. Tabooger, first proper name Ollie.

patrob [OP]
Bargain Guru
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Apr 17, 2005
11038 posts
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Brampton

slowtyper wrote: ↑Then for example I go to this site (http://www.lumberliquidators.ca/tin/s/e ... pe=production) and look at their sqft prices. Are these all crap? I encounter a bunch of different sites with similar prices, are these just crappy engineered hardwood or what am I missing hither?

Lumber Liquidators is probably the only place that sells floors at such low prices. Most of them if not all are Made in Prc & 3/8" is very thin! At that place are laminates thicker than that. Lumber Liquidators is not in business to sell quality products, they liquidate products that nobody else wants to buy. If you decide to buy from them, buy more than you need because I doubt you can order more in the future of the same production. BTW have you watched news lately about Lumber Liquidators? Non a store I would buy anything myself from.

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patrob [OP]
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Apr 17, 2005
11038 posts
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Brampton

Tabooger wrote: ↑I'm on rug now, and they contractor will exist doing the flooring. I've opted to remove the carpet myself and screw downward the floor to eliminate noise. I'm merely reading articles on how to go about screwing down the subfloor. It'due south a 6 year old newly built home in Ottawa.

Any tips? Spiral size for example, how far apart in the field, and how far apart forth the sides.

Thank you!

ii" sub-flooring screws, approx. 8" autonomously.

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